Abu Nuhas

Four cargo ships from four different decades lie scattered around a submerged reef the size of a small village. Liveaboards typically start with the deepest: Kimon M at 32m, a 120m freighter on its side where pipefish now thread through holds that once carried lentils. Then Giannis D, tilted 45 degrees and split into three sections, with its funnel "D" marking still legible through the soft coral. Chrisoula K comes next, its bow rising to within 3m of the surface, Italian floor tiles still stacked in the cargo hold. Carnatic, the oldest diveable wreck in the Red Sea, rounds out the circuit at 18-27m. Its wooden decking rotted away over a century ago, leaving iron ribs standing open like a cathedral frame, every surface thick with soft coral.

The reef's position tells the story. Abu Nuhas, "Father of Copper," juts into the main shipping channel between the Suez Canal and the southern Red Sea. Ships ran aground here for over a century. The result is a wreck collection spanning 114 years, each ship preserved at a different stage of decay and marine colonization. Carnatic's iron skeleton hosts the densest soft coral coverage. Giannis D's intact engine room at 13m offers the easiest penetration. Glassfish pour through every hold in thick curtains, giant morays occupy the darker cavities, and batfish circle the superstructures. Divers who don't care about wrecks often leave Abu Nuhas reconsidering. The biology alone rivals the best reef sites in the region.

Currents run strong where the Suez Canal outflow hits the northern corner of the reef. Plan your entry accordingly. Dive Kimon M first while your gas supply is fresh. Inside Carnatic, broken glass from the ship's cargo lies on the seabed alongside collapsed beams. Bring a torch for any penetration. Multiple boats moor here at the same time; deploy an SMB well before surfacing. The reef itself is worth a dive after dark: the 3-5m zone comes alive with hunting lionfish, squid, and Spanish dancer nudibranchs. A 5mm wetsuit is adequate even in January.