Jackson reef

Rusting metal breaks the surface ahead of the boat. That is the Lara, and below it lies Jackson Reef. The dive begins at fixed moorings on the sheltered south side, where coral columns rise from a sandy plateau in the Aquarium section. This is the gentle face of Jackson: 5 to 12 metres of reef fish density that earned the name. Anthias, butterflyfish, and garden eels on the sand below keep new divers occupied.

Head north along the eastern face and everything changes. The wall steepens, gorgonian fans and black coral trees appear, and the current picks up. In strong flow, this becomes Jackson Drift. One instructor who has dived it both ways called it "a gentle potter about" on calm days and "flying over the gardens in seconds" when the current runs. Red-toothed triggerfish fill the midwater in schools thick enough to obscure the blue beyond.

At 27-28m on the eastern wall, look for a rare red anemone specimen. It is a known photography stop. From here, the wall continues deeper than recreational limits allow.

Jackson Reef has a split personality that no other Tiran site matches. The Aquarium section could pass for a beginner site on a windless morning. The eastern wall, minutes later, delivers the fastest drift dive in the Sharm area. Few sites offer both extremes on a single dive.

Then there are the hammerheads. From August to October, divers descend off the northern tip into open blue water at 30m or deeper, scanning below for schooling scalloped hammerheads. This is a different dive entirely: no reef reference, strong current, and no guarantee of a sighting. It requires experience and a willingness to push limits safely.

Conditions at Jackson change fast. A dive that starts calm at the southern moorings can become a strong drift by the time you reach the east wall. Carry a DSMB and be ready to deploy it. Only round the eastern point if your guide agrees beforehand.

The "washing machine" between Jackson and Woodhouse reefs produces dangerous eddies in strong wind. If your guide says the conditions are marginal, trust that assessment. Nitrox is worth having for the deeper wall sections. Budget 45-60 minutes, but air management matters more than the clock here.