Abu Kafan

The north-plateau drift starts with a drop onto the plateau at about 25 m, then moves north-east to the eastern drop-off, where fan and brush corals hold long-nosed hawkfish and unicornfish and fusiliers stream through the blue. Depending on current and sun the drift can instead run east or west along the reef side, with the wall on one shoulder and open water on the other. Black coral, soft coral and large gorgonians dress the deeper face, and schools hang in the current beside it. Hundreds of bright red common bigeyes gather over the flats of the plateau.

The south plateau is the other dive: from the mooring over a sheer edge at 25 to 30 m, past pinnacles with morays, wrasse, grouper and anthias, onto the longer, narrower plateau. Either way the plan turns with the sea, and the drift only works in one direction.

Abu Kafan is a 300 m reef standing in open sea, with a plateau at each end and walls dropping away on the flanks, so you are never far from the edge whichever way the current sends you. That position is what gives the site its reputation: reef sharks, barracuda and the odd hammerhead are reported here regularly, though they remain chances. One 2019 visitor praised the reef's health and its fish schools, saw a manta pass, and saw no shark all trip. One operator likens the reef to a small Elphinstone. It is popular, and boats from Hurghada also stop here, so it can be crowded at times.

Abu Kafan is a weather dive. Wind closes the reef entirely and boats go to the sheltered reefs behind Abu Soma, so allow slack in a trip if this is the one you want. Strong currents and high waves sit on the north and north-east side, and the guide reads current and sun before choosing the route. Divers report adding around 2 kg of lead for the Red Sea's salinity. Save gas for the end: the reef top at 3 m is the place for the safety stop along the wall.