Diving in Begur

Three descending rocky bars hung with red and yellow gorgonians give Cap de Begur its character, and one operator calls the headland the point that reaches furthest into the Mediterranean and very exposed to currents. Furió Fitó, a pinnacle just under a kilometre north of the cape, is the signature advanced dive: a plateau at about 14 m that drops past 50 m toward 60 m, with a smaller pinnacle at 26 m. Illa Negra, a rock island south of the cape, is a multilevel dive between about 6 and 23 m with a crevice that holds lobsters, congers and morays.

Inshore the water is gentler. Aiguablava cove gives a protected shore entry within 20 m, with Roman amphorae and the remains of sunken boats on the seabed, and local centres turn that into an archaeological baptism dive. Sa Tuna, behind Punta Es Ploms, has a submerged canyon and a cave full of lobsters, at depths of roughly 14 to 25 m. Canons de Tamariu adds parallel rock bars in calmer water.

Spiny lobsters, morays, congers and octopus are the regulars, and sunfish and eagle rays turn up off the cape in late spring.

All the boat diving leaves from the beach at Aiguablava, and one local operator advertises more than ten sites within ten minutes by boat. Begur sits between the Palafrugell coast to the south and L'Estartit to the north, so it works as a base for the middle of the Costa Brava. Girona is about 45 km away and Barcelona about 130 km, with the road covering the rest.

Scuba is prohibited inside the Ses Negres reserve, an 80-hectare stretch between Cap Negre and Pa de Pessic protected since 1993, as are anchoring and boat speeds above 3 knots. The dives described here lie outside it. Since 2016 guided educational visits have run through registered centres, two a day with few people; ask whether they still operate. Ask a centre before planning a summer shore dive at Sa Tuna, where a seasonal closure has been mentioned.

Match the site to your card. Aiguablava, Sa Tuna and Canons de Tamariu suit first dives and divers returning to the water. Illa Negra is an easy multilevel dive for Open Water divers on its upper levels, and the lower levels toward 23 m call for Advanced Open Water. Cap de Begur starts at 5 m, but the current makes the cape an Advanced Open Water dive, and its deeper bars ask for a guide who knows the day's conditions. Furió Fitó is Advanced Open Water with deep-dive experience. Expect summer water at 22 to 26 C at the surface, and a thicker, semi-dry or dry suit in winter. Ask your centre about conditions on the cape the morning you dive.