Portichol Norte

A school of barracuda can appear out of the blue here with almost no warning, especially when a light current is running along the island's north face. The dive alternates between rocky shoals hugging the island, some rising to just 4-5m, and open plains of gravel and Posidonia further out toward the working depth of 18-22m. Cracks and holes along the rock shelter moray eels and lobsters for anyone willing to slow down between the fish-watching. Rather than one fixed circuit, the boat crew routes the dive differently depending on conditions, weaving between the "mountains" and the "plains" so the site rarely repeats itself.

Local divers call this stretch Barracuda Point, and the current that some sites treat as a hazard is the whole reason to come here: it concentrates amberjack and barracuda close enough to watch as a school rather than glimpse in passing. Barracuda numbers build toward a September-October peak, while amberjack show up whenever the current is right, current more than calendar. The lack of a fixed route means two dives at Portichol Norte can look completely different, which keeps it interesting for divers who already know the area.

A torch helps for checking the rock's crevices, where morays tend to sit rather than swim in open water. Ask the boat crew which route they are running that day since the dive genuinely varies visit to visit. The best light-current days bring the fish schools closest, so a little current on the surface is a good sign rather than a reason to cancel.