Diving in Costa del Montgrí

Limestone cliffs that rise up to 100 m above the sea carry on below the surface, dropping up to 50 m, and the sea has cut them into capes, coves, islets, arches and caves along the Montgrí massif between L'Estartit and L'Escala. The park authority catalogues sixteen submarine itineraries along this shore, and the diving on them is about the rock: swim-through tunnels, arches, caves with air chambers and two wrecks. The Illes Medes lie just offshore and have their own page.

Cala Pedrosa has a tunnel through Pedrosa island at 18 to 24 m, lined with sponges and red coral, for experienced divers; the dive carries on past 30 m. Trencabraços has a tunnel through to las Cámaras, also experienced level, and Arcs del Duï opens three rock arches to swim through. Cala Viuda is the cave set: several caves totalling 200 m of passage with three air chambers.

The wrecks are the deep end. The Reggio Messina lies broken in three sections, stern, middle and bow, too large for one dive, at 23 to 35 m by the park's figure and 40 m in a wreck listing, with 5 to 15 m of visibility. The Marmoler, near Cala Montgó at the southern end, is reported at 42 to 44 m.

On the walls, Punta Salines runs from 3 to 28 m over rock and coralligenous growth with yellow and red gorgonians and spiny lobster, and it is little protected from levante. Puig de la Sardina is an underwater mountain about 200 m offshore with three peaks at 14, 22 and 27 m, gorgonian-covered walls and shoals of amberjack and horse mackerel.

Fish life is modest next to the reserve: the odd grouper turns up at Cala Calella and Punta Mila, and morays, octopus and congers use the cracks and tunnels. Macro life carries the night dives. Plan the wrecks around the deeper depth figure.

Start with level. Punta Salines, Baix de Cols and Negre del Falaguer are the easy end, the tunnels at Cala Pedrosa and Trencabraços are for experienced divers, and the Reggio Messina reaches past 30 m.

Boats leave L'Estartit for most of the coast and L'Escala for the southern end around Cala Montgó and the Marmoler. Girona-Costa Brava airport is about 40 km from L'Estartit, Barcelona about 125 km, roughly two and a half hours by road. Operators out of L'Estartit generally run both the Medes and the coast, and one advertises themed route days for wrecks, caves, tunnels and walls, so name the feature you want when you enquire.

The coast lies inside a protected natural park and the centre briefs you on its rules before you get in the water. The park's voluntary Ecobriefing programme reports up to 6.5 times less impact from guided, briefed dives than from unguided ones.

May to October gives the warmest water and best visibility. Take the tunnels and caves with a guide who knows the passage; the park recommends one for Cala Viuda.